Ireland 2022

Ireland 2022

Dublin 

In March 2020, the covid curtains came down on our travel adventures with the onset of travel bans. Back then, we were all geared up for a Rick Steves tour in Turkey, but alas, it wasn't meant to be. The disappointment was real, my friends.

However, fast forward to April 27, 2022, and we found ourselves flying again, with 'one leg down, one to go!', making up for our 2020 anniversary trip to none other than Ireland - The Land of Saints and Scholars.

Touching down in Dublin, we navigated customs and embarked on a curious journey through the airport, eventually finding the taxi queue. We chatted up the taxi driver; he was quite the character.  Pointing out the best pubs and places to eat and which ones to avoid.  So, our adventure in the Emerald Isle began, fueled by the anticipation of new experiences and the joy of rediscovering the world.

Once we settled into our room at the Dublin Citi Hotel, we hit the streets for a bit of urban wandering. Taking our time while soaking up the vibes and getting a bit of fish and chips. It's like their on-the-go staple. We found ourselves not too far from the 'cultural quarter,' the beating heart of the city's nightlife scene, where there is always something happing, day or night. From my perspective, Dublin can be short stay on your itinerary, easy enough to enjoy the cathedrals, pubs, Guinness Storehouse, Book of Kells and Kilmainham Gaol, unfortunately, it was sold out on our days of visit.

The Library of Trinity College Dublin

If you happen to visit Dublin, you simply must explore the Book of Kells. This masterpiece is a true work of art, featuring Latin Gospels adorned with intricate decorations and carefully written on vellum. The book's origins have puzzled many, sparking debates on whether it hails from Iona, Northumbria, or Pictland. However, what truly makes it famous is the opulent artwork that beautifully illuminates the life of Jesus. The Book is divided into four volumes, allowing all to admire its splendor.

In ancient times, three artists and four scribes created this masterpiece using a range of pigments. The imperfect text hints at its use for religious occasions. In 1006, it was stolen for its shrine. The Book of Kells, with a rich history, attracts over half a million visitors annually, making it worth the admission. When in Dublin, don't miss the chance to explore this remarkable historical treasure! 

The Long Room

After enjoying the Book of Kells exhibition, we strolled upstairs to the main chamber of the Old Library - Long Room; at nearly 65 meters in length, it is normally filled with 200,000 of the library's oldest books and is one of the most impressive libraries in the world. As of 2023, there is a historic conservation project occurring where each book is removed from the shelves, cleaned, measured and boxed.  Here's a link for more details:  

Old Library Redevelopment Project | Trinity College Dublin (visittrinity.ie) 

The Guinness Storehouse

It's worth the beer at the top floor of the Gravity Bar, a floor to ceiling of windows with 360-degree views of Dublin city. The vista stretches as far south as the Dublin and Wicklow mountains, and across Dublin Bay. There are many different tour options to choose from, but we just opted for the basic entry, that includes a Guinness, it was a pretty cool experience.

Saint Patrick's Cathedral 

Walking across the cobbled streets and onto the paved sidewalks of some of the most picturesque neighborhoods in Dublin, all while listening to Google navigation guide us closer to the SPC. Words fail to fully describe it, but it's massive, boasting a garden and a park.  This 800 year old Cathedral has grown while intriguing its visitors.

Saint Patrick’s Cathedral Dublin, Ireland (stpatrickscathedral.ie)

Rock of Cashel 

Wrapping up our Dublin adventure, we made our way to the rental car hub. Our encounter with My Irish Cousin My Irish Cousin | Peace of Mind Car Rental in Ireland  was exceptional, setting the perfect tone for our trip. While driving a manual car wasn't new to us, the prospect of driving on the left side of the road and in a car with the driver's seat on the right was undeniably nerve-wracking, a real nail-biter.

The human mind's capacity for adaptation is truly remarkable. The moment I eased into the driver's seat and hit the road, I could feel my instincts adjusting to the new norms, smoothly shifting gears and navigating with caution.

I'll confess, though; the driving dynamic did spark some good-natured banter between my wife and me. Positioned on the left as the passenger, she'd occasionally holler about that I was getting too close to the left side of the road – yes, the left side that remains obstructed because I'm driving on the on the right side of the car. Nevertheless, we managed the challenge just fine in the end.  

So, with that said, our road trip adventure across Ireland kicks off.  First stop, Rock of Cashel.

The Rock of Cashel, a commanding presence in County Tipperary, Ireland, is an ancient site with a history dating back to the 4th century. This medieval stronghold, also known as St. Patrick's Rock, has been the stage for the coronation of kings, pivotal battles, and important religious events. A visit here is like stepping back in time as you explore the intricate Celtic crosses, the striking Romanesque architecture of Cormac's Chapel, and the looming round tower, all set against the backdrop of Ireland's idyllic countryside. It's a journey into the heart of Ireland's history and heritage.

Shenanigans Walks - Kilkenny

We spent a couple of hours at the castle and then backtracked a bit to Kilkenny to meet up with Nevin Cody from Shenanigans Walks - Nevin wears many hats – he's not just a historian but also a comedian, entertainer, and a true gentleman! Our tour with him was an absolute delight, filled with fascinating historical insights, magic, and a hearty laughter. 

Shenanigans Walking Tours (shenaniganswalks.ie)

 

Kinsale

After our walking tour of Kilkenny, we drove to Kinsale - a picturesque coastal town with medieval roots; celebrated for its beauty and rich history. Situated just 25km from Cork City and marking the start of the 'Wild Atlantic Way'.  With colorful buildings and 2 historic forts, Kinsale is referred to as 'Ireland's Riviera. A very easy town to walk and chat with the locals. 

Upon our arrival at the charming bed and breakfast, we had the pleasure of meeting our host. In our prior email exchanges, our host had signed off as "Phil." Naturally, we assumed it was a shortened version of Philip. However, to our delightful surprise, we soon learned that "Phil" was an abbreviation for Philomena. Phil has a kind and gentle demeanor, and she immediately made us feel at home. 

Each morning, she would prepare Ireland's standard - "Full Irish Breakfast", man talk about a full belly. Our stay at the bed and breakfast in Kinsale was comfortable and a great first-time at a BB in Ireland. 

After breakfast, we hit the pavement, eager to explore the surrounding areas. Our journey led us downtown and along the bay, passing through some rather upscale neighborhoods before finally arriving at Charles Fort.

Charles Fort is a testament to the late 17th century, nestled right by the water's edge. Its well-preserved, star-shaped walls provide a portal to a bygone era of strategic defense and maritime history. Beyond its historical significance, Charles Fort has become a cherished destination for tourists. The spacious layout affords awe-inspiring sea views, making it ideal for leisurely strolls and an opportunity to drift into the past, pondering the soldiers' duties and the purposes of various buildings.

Regrettably, we ran out of time to explore James Fort on the opposite side of the bay. However, the next day, we embarked on a walking tour with Barry from Historic Stroll Kinsale. Barry, a genuinely nice guy and accomplished historian, guided us to points of interest. He vividly described the town's evolution and its changing shoreline. One particularly memorable aspect of the tour was observing his interactions with the locals during our walk, a firsthand glimpse of the authentic Irish spirit in action.

Drombeg Stone Circle

We bid Adieu to our B&B and sweet host Phil and into our diesel engine car to drive to see some stone circles.  Drombeg Stone Circle, also known locally as the Druid's Altar, can be found in Glandore, County Cork. This circle consists of 17 standing stones, and excavations have uncovered an urn burial at its center, dating back to 153 BC to 127 AD. In 1957 and 1958, further excavations unveiled cremated bones within a deliberately broken pot, cloth-wrapped, and buried near the circle's center. 

While we didn't locate anything ancient, we did get a sense of quiet and peacefulness.  The location is beautiful, at the head of a long green valley, with a view that gently swoops down to the Atlantic ocean. 

As we walked towards the circle, we passed this sad looking horse, I have no idea the reason for its melancholy, but if this animal could talk, oh the stories.

The National Park, Killarney

A scenic drive along the N 71 to arrive at the Killarney National Park.  This national park is ensconced near the charming town of Killarney in County Kerry.  Killarney National Park, known as "Páirc Náisiúnta Chill Airne" in Irish, holds a cherished place in Ireland's natural heritage. It stands as the country's inaugural national park, a testament to its ecological significance and breath-taking landscapes. Established in 1932 through the generous donation of the Muckross Estate, this park has since flourished, expanding to encompass a vast and diverse expanse of 102.89 square kilometers (25,425 acres).

Within its borders are 3 lakes, Torc waterfall, ancient abbey and red deer; adding to its ecological significance. Recognized as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1981 and managed by the National Parks and Wildlife Service, the park's primary objective is nature conservation. There is so much too see, to really take advantage of the many trail loops, 2 days would be wise.  Sadley, we were there for a half day, so opted for the boat ride across the lake and a hike to the Abby.

Muckross Abbey, known as Mainistir Locha Léin or Mainistir Mhucrois in Irish, is a significant ecclesiastical site nestled within Killarney National Park. This abbey was established in 1448 to serve as a Franciscan friary for the Observantine Franciscans under the patronage of Donal McCarthy Mor.

Dingle

From Killarney National Park to Dingle, was one of the most memorable drives of the entire trip, man I wish I could have captured it on video.  Dingle is a town in County Kerry and the only town on the Dingle Peninsula, that sits on the Atlantic coast.  A very quaint town indeed.

We stayed at another B & B located just along Main Street.  Dingle is small but spread out and there are plenty of restaurants and shopping.  We eat at Out of the Blue, yes, delicious.  The following day we drove the Dingle Peninsula and stopped along way for pictures and exploration.  The Fairy Fort was the highlight for me, watch the video below.

Conor Pass

Leaving Dingle early in the morning, we arrived at Conor Pass. This is one of the country's highest mountain crossings, providing an exhilarating route from the Dingle Peninsula's northern to southern coast. This twisting 12-kilometer road weaves between Dingle in the south and Kilmore Cross in the north. Its striking beauty unfolds with glaciated mountains, serene corrie lakes, and a sweeping valley. After enjoying the view from the vista point, we had to get moving, but we were panicking knowing that there's a narrow section where two cars can't pass each other.  We watched from the top vista point to see when two cars would have to back up? We were blessed that it was still early, so the pass was somewhat clear.  We made it through without having to exchange pale white facial expressions with a local. Over the top viewpoints, Peddlar's Lake and the summit, are the reward for drivers, with breathtaking Wild Atlantic Way panoramas...

Talbert Ferry

Our first ferry adventure opened a new chapter in our journey. While awaiting the arrival of the ferry, an amusing situation occurred. As we drove up in direction to the ferry, we passed a tour bus because of a gap in front of the bus. So, we drove around it, a car following behind us, did the same thing.  Once we settled to continue waiting, the tour bus driver jumped out and let us have it, "you can't jump the queue" - the family behind us (locals) were like don't worry about it, he should have said to me since I'm behind you.  We just laughed and got back in our cars and waited.  All in all, the ferry was a cool experience.

Cliffs of Moher

The Cliffs of Moher, situated in County Clare, are awe-inspiring sea cliffs. Stretching for 9 miles, they reach a towering height of 702 feet near O'Brien's Tower, built in 1835 by Sir Cornelius O'Brien. From here, you can spot the Aran Islands, the Maumturks and Twelve Pins mountains, and Loop Head. These are the famous Cliffs from Harry Potter and the Half-Blood.  Here's a good write up on it, check out the The Cliffs of Moher Harry Potter - theirishroadtrip.com

After arriving at the visitor center, we decided to walk to the south end towards Moher Tower at Hag's Head, which is about 3.5 miles.  Fairly flat with lots of wind for our enjoyment. Unfortunately, we were tired and hungry so made our way back to the VC and had lunch.  Then off to our next stop.

Galway - Inishmore

I had expected Galway to be a small, quiet town, but it was the opposite. Galway is the sixth-largest city on the entire island of Ireland. In 2022, about 85,910 people lived there, so driving into the city presented some challenges. First, there was the bustling traffic to navigate, along with the locals who had the advantage, and second, was finding the designated hotel's public car park. Sigh!

We stayed at the Eyre Square Hotel, which is in the city center and just a short walk to Eyre Square and nearby shopping centers. We enjoyed riverside walks along the Corrib, eating fish-n-chips, walking under the Spanish Arch checking out the Galway Museum, and the most fun was our 30-minute walk to Connor's pub in Salthill. I had a bit too much to drink that night, but it was totally worth it. Fun fact: "Galway Girl" by Ed Sheeran was filmed there too. If we return, I will stay in Salthill; it's right along the beach and has a better vibe than the city.   Galway Girl O'Connor's Pub

Among other places we visited was the Galway Cathedral.  Massive structure built in 1965. Unlike older cathedrals built on sacred ground, this one was on a former prison site.

Bishop Miceál Browne oversaw its construction, and the result is an architectural marvel fusing Gothic, Renaissance, and Romanesque styles.

Galway is an ideal location for day trips around the area, so we ventured on a ferry to experience one of the Aran Islands - Inishmore; Angie did not fare well with the sea. Once we arrived, we headed over to rent some bikes to get around the island. They kept asking if we wanted the e-bikes, but I was like, "Nah, we're good." Mistake. We regretted that decision for the rest of the day; there are hills on the island!

Lastly, while pedaling laboriously towards Dún Dúchathair (Black Fort), we had to stop and pull over to the side of the road due to a car. While standing next to the briar bush, I couldn't get my leg down to the ground in a timely fashion, and I toppled into it. While I had some minor scratches and removed a few thorns from my hand, the only thing that hurt the most was my pride.

The Quiet Man Bridge

Bidding farewell to the city, we set our direction to The Quiet Man Bridge, located off the N59 road.  We are fans of the movie and were excited to see it in person. 

Connemara

Leaving Galway, our journey led to Connemara, a picturesque region adorned with mountains, peninsulas, hidden coves, islands, and tranquil lakes. Connemara National Park graces the northwest.

Our adventure began with an early visit to Kylemore Abbey, arriving too early to secure entrance tickets. Nevertheless, we explored the abbey's exterior, which turned out to be a blessing, allowing us extra time to hike Diamond Hill. At 442 meters (1,450 feet), Diamond Hill overlooks the Polladirk valley. Although smaller than the Twelve Bens nearby, the trek to its summit was rewarded with breathtaking vistas of the Twelve Bens range and western Connemara.

Our hike began with an easy stroll through the lower boglands, along the blue loop. Cross connecting with the red loop trail. The terrain became more challenging, but the view at the summit made every step worthwhile.

Westport

Our experience in Westport left us feeling a bit disconnected, for us it seemed to lack the quaint Irish charm that many other towns and villages had and that we had come to expect. We had some trouble finding our B&B, and once we were settled, we decided to explore the city center, which is relatively compact, stretching across just four or five blocks.

While there are certainly activities and attractions in Westport, it all comes down to your personal preferences and interests.  Of course, everyone's experience is unique, so your visit might offer a different perspective.

Northen Ireland

Northern Ireland, part of the UK on the northeastern side of the island of Ireland, holds a population of approximately 1,903,100 (2021 census), representing 27% of the island's population and 3% of the UK's total. Established in 1921 under the Government of Ireland Act 1920, Northern Ireland was created with a unionist majority, predominantly Protestant, favoring UK union, while a significant Catholic minority identified with Irish nationalism and a united Ireland. The region's history saw violence, notably the Troubles, a thirty-year conflict, but the 1998 Good Friday Agreement marked a significant step towards peace. The economy, once industrial, faced decline but has seen growth since the late 1990s, while its cultural identity is a complex mix of Irish and British influences.

The Giant's Causeway

The Giant's Causeway, famous for its striking polygonal columns of layered basalt, stands as the sole UNESCO World Heritage Site in Northern Ireland. Formed in the wake of volcanic eruptions, this natural wonder serves as the centerpiece of a designated area of outstanding natural beauty, beckoning visitors from all corners of the globe for centuries.

As it stretches out into the awe-inspiring expanse of the North Atlantic Ocean, the Giant’s Causeway has been a wellspring of inspiration for countless artists and writers. We were captivated by the shapes of the rocks and surrounding landscape.  Our stay at the Causeway Hotel was pleasant.  This place is right next to the visitors' center, easy walking access to site.  Would definitely return and stay here again.

The Dark Hedges - The Kings Road

As we finished our breakfast, and parted ways with Giants Causeway, we made our way to Bregagh Road, famously known as the Dark Hedges or King's Road from the Game of Thrones. This location is adorned with two rows of beech trees that were planted in the 18th century by James Stuart. Unfortunately, for us, it was windy and raining when we visited, yet the place was still busy with fans photographing from every angle.

I hope to return someday to possibly catch a glimpse of the Grey Lady, a local legend who is said to appear on dark nights. She is believed to be the spirit of a maid or even James Stuart's daughter.

Belfast

Belfast, is known for shipbuilding, the construction of the RMS Titanic and the Troubles. A 30-year conflict spanning from the late 1960s to 1998. Fueled by politics, involving Protestants and Catholics.  We hired a Black Taxi ride, to visit multiple pacelines, walls, and once “no go” areas during the time of the Troubles. We saw both Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods, and I highly recommend this experience if you find yourself in Belfast.

All in all, Belfast has a lot to offer, if you plan ahead. It rained most of the time we were there but was still fun. We just walked around and snapped some photos and grabbed a bite to eat at a local sandwich shop.  

The End

Thank you for sticking around till the end of this blog post. I hope you found it enjoyable and informative. Our time in Ireland was truly amazing, and we're already looking forward to our next visit. Our trip concluded with an unexpected stay at a posh B&B that Angie booked last minute (our AirBnB ghosted us). Of course, I may have indulged in a bit too much to drink on our final night, but it was absolutely worth it. Until our next adventure - Slán go fóill (Goodbye for now).